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Kayak Fishing Basics
This document is intended to prepare students for the Kayak Fishing class conducted by Blue Ridge Kayak Fishing LLC. The first part of the document is the lesson plan for the class. Classes differ depending on paddling and angling skill levels of the student prior to the class. The river conditions, time of year, student feedback, and student’s rate of progress also affect the individual lesson plan. The lesson plan listed below is comprehensive, and covers all skills and knowledge that can be covered in a single class.
The second part of this document is a series of articles that ran in The Sportsman’s Magazine in summer of 2005. The first part covers choosing the right kayak and accessories for the type of water you will be fishing. The second part covers river safety and basic paddling skills. The final article covers how to maintain your kayak’s position without the use of an anchor, and how to approach a target area without being detected by the fish.
Starting in the 2006 season, Blue Ridge Kayak Fishing will offer tidal largemouth kayak fishing classes in addition to the river smallmouth kayak fishing classes. If you have any questions about kayak fishing, how to set up a fishing kayak, or would like to schedule a class, please call Jeff Little at (410) 635-3957, or contact via e-mail at yakfish@earthlink.net.
River Smallmouth Kayak Fishing Lesson Plan
- On Shore
- Waiver
- Equipment List
- Stretching
- Boat terminology (Bow, Stern, Cockpit, Skirt, Deck Rigging)
- Getting in: Adjust foot pegs, PFD on, Grab loop out.
- Hazards/ Rescue
- Rescue Procedure: People, Boats, Gear (kayaker wont let go of paddle)
- Rock Broach (hug the rock) Simulate and practice
- Strainer (avoid, always keep an eye downstream)
- White-water Swimming Position Entrapment Prevention (feet downstream, toes out of water, upstream of boat)
- Ledges/ White-water (Read or Scout, Perpendicular to the drop)
- Wet Exit
- Practice Twice
- How to empty the boat
- Strokes
- Why is it important? (efficiency, power, and stealth) 360 turn demo
- Hand positioning (90 degrees locked elbow, don't squash the box)
- Three parts of stroke: Catch (fish spear), Power (path determines type of stroke), Recovery (efficiency wind)
- Sweep Stroke: Torso Rotate tie into stretch
- Forward Stroke: No double dipping, sweep on weak side to compensate Exercise: Pick a point and go straight without double dipping
- Ruddering: an inefficient last resort stroke: kills you speed and stability
- Reverse: practice it so you have it when you really need it!
- Quick Quiet stops: Practice: like a catch: no bubbles, no noise
- Draws: regular and sculling
- Braces: head dink to show hip snap
- Stealth Strokes: O.K. to not torso rotate. Be quiet: no bubbles, no wake, watch for obstructions, fend off with hands if safe.
- Reading Water
- Downstream V's: Scout it if not sure, tie down everything, aim for the middle, stay perpendicular to the drop, keep paddling (speed = stability) Practice a wave train run
- Upstream V's (avoid the middle)
- Eddy Lines (importance in maneuvering)
- Surface Disturbance (What can it tell you about the bottom structure?)
- Wind: See the gust coming
- Maintaining Boat Position
- Wedging technique - Shallow object, Shore, Sandbar
- One hand paddling technique
- Use elbows
- Eddy out
- Getting stuck in a rapid: not always bad
- Sit on top techniques
- Maneuvers: combination of speed, angle, and lean
- Ferries (Angle) String through the ear exercise
- Peel Outs (Lean) same side paddle turn demo and practice Sweep on upstream side, lean downstream, and plant the paddle on downstream by your knee parallel to boat
- Eddy Turns: not if you want to fish the spot! (Speed)
- Attainments: getting back upstream eddy hopping
- Pattern Development: find the right current and structure and look for replication
- Current and Temperature Connection: Current = Wind
- Structure: What type: Rock Size (size of shadow), Pool Depth, Ledges (on upstream or downstream side?), Wood, Shade, Spawning areas, Vegetation, Mud Lines, Tributaries.
- Location patterning vs. behavior patterning
- Approaches: Stealth
- Sound: most big fish come when I am alone (quiet, concentrate)
- Sight: They face upstream, Use obstructions, Pick a bank, Long casts.
- Wake: Slow down and drift into the area: big fish homes and no wake zones!
- Crashing the hole: If you see them, they know the serial number on your boat
- Big fish bloodhound: Sniper analogy - don't let them see you coming, you get only one shot.
- Finesse presentation
- Cast past it, not on top of it.
- Too much action can be bad for big fish. Slow drag it: A crawfish is trying not to be noticed.
- Keep line taught: can't feel the hit on slack line.
- Hookset Technique: Rod tip high, point at the hit while gathering line, and get violent. Setting your drag correctly.
- What does it feel like when they hit (importance of a good rod or braided line)
- Playing A Fish
- Rod angle (lower it after hookset while keeping tension)
- Know hang up hazards (It’s ok. to horse a fish if he's near a hang up hazard)
- Keep him in the water (minimize jumps by anticipating and lowering rod tip)
- Netting: heartbreak prevention
- Photos: be quick to keep the fish healthy, hold him in the water if there is a delay.
- How to present different lures
- Suspending jerk bait: both a finesse and reaction type lure
- Spinnerbaits, crankbaits, swim baits, buzzbaits.
- Tubes, senkos, flukes : dead drift for bigger fish
Kayak Fishing For River Smallmouth
Part One: Getting Started
Kayak fishing has established itself in the saltwater arena. Up and down the Atlantic seaboard, people are chasing stripers, weakfish, cobia, and other saltwater species from kayaks. In Florida, anglers have landed Tarpon and Shark from sit on top kayaks. On the west coast, kayak fishermen are catching Halibut and Marlin. This unique method of fishing has also started to permeate the rivers flowing from the Blue Ridge Mountains here in Virginia. For three years, I have been teaching people how to catch smallmouth from kayaks in rivers like the Shenandoah, James, Rappahannock, and New. River kayak fishing requires a different style of kayak, and set of skills than those required by saltwater kayak anglers.
This article begins a three part series that will guide you through the process of getting started as a river kayak angler. Specifically, you will learn about purchasing and rigging a fishing kayak, learning paddling skills that will keep you from danger on the river, and the boat positioning skills and stealth approaches needed to catch citation Virginia river smallmouth bass. This first article will assist you in purchasing and rigging a fishing kayak.
Many beginning kayak anglers have emailed or called me to ask, “What kayak should I get?” They usually expect an immediate answer in the form of a specific kayak endorsement. It’s really not that easy. There are sit on top kayaks, sit in kayaks, whitewater kayaks, creek boats, touring kayaks, and recreational kayaks. To purchase the best kayak for you, you should ask yourself a few questions about how you will use the kayak.
The first thing to assess is your comfort level while sitting in the boat. The best way to do this is to go to a kayak retailer and sit in several boats. Try getting in and out of the kayak several times. If you feel cramped, ask the salesperson to help you adjust the seat and foot pegs for you. If you still feel cramped, try another boat. Kayak retailers such as Appomattox River Company (www.paddleva.com) often have demo days where you can test paddle different models. By taking advantage of a demo day, you can get a feel for how certain models compare against one another and make a better decision. Ask yourself, “Am I comfortable in this boat?”
Generally, recreational kayaks have high occupant capacity limits. Weight capacities are available from kayak retailers in the form of kayak specification sheets. You should factor in how much gear you plan on bringing when considering your weight capacity needs. I use a lower capacity boat if I am on a one day float trip. I bring a larger kayak when I go on a multiple day camping float trip. This allows me to bring items like a tent, sleeping bag, and food. Ask yourself, “How much weight capacity will I need?”
Sit on top kayaks allow the angler to get in and out of the kayak easily. Usually in mid to late summer, the river’s flow will decrease, exposing lots of gravel bars and ledges. Having the ability to get in and out easily means spending more time fishing, and less time dragging the kayak across exposed ledges. Ask yourself, “How often will I get out of the boat?”
The next consideration is the length and shape of the boat. I paddle boats 10 feet or less because I prefer to fish in moving water with occasional class 2 rapids. In this type of current, a shorter boat excels because it can be turned easily. Kayaks that are 12 feet or longer perform well on flat water. They are able to cover a lot of water quickly, which can be an asset on big flat water. Ask yourself, “How much current will I encounter?”
The vast majority of kayak fishermen will be happiest in a recreational sit in or sit on top kayak. The hull designs of these boats vary greatly. Boats over 12 feet are often the best choice for anglers who fish flat water or mild moving water with only the occasional class 1 rapid. Boats between 10 and 12 feet in length perform well for anglers who fish both flat and moving water. More maneuverable kayaks (10 feet and under) are best suited for float trips that contain several class 2 or 3 rapids.
The hull design can make the boat react like a boat that is shorter or longer than it really is. While in the store, flip the kayak over and look at the shape of the keel line. The keel line is the shape of the hull at the front and back of the underside of the kayak. A strong keel line is pointy at the front and rear of the bottom of the boat. White water boats have no keel line and can turn without effort. Rounder boats require more effort to paddle through flat water, but turn easily in whitewater. Anglers who fish non moving water will be happier in pointier boats. The more pronounced the keel line is, the faster the boat will travel in a straight line. Choose a hull design that matches the water that you will fish in. Ask yourself, “Is it more important for me to cover a lot of water quickly, or turn the boat quickly?”
Once you have purchased your kayak, you will need to purchase at least three accessories: your paddle, a rod holder, and most importantly, your life vest. Other possible accessories include dry bags, a landing net, an adhesive ruler, a spray skirt for sit in kayaks, thigh straps for sit on top kayaks, and a hand bilge pump or car washing sponge to remove water. Most kayak fishermen that I know have come up with creative ways to custom rig their kayaks. You will know what other accessories you need after a few trips. For purposes of getting someone started, I’ll outline how to select the right paddle, rod holder, and life vest.
The most important accessory is the one that will save your life. It is imperative that you get a life vest that fits correctly and is comfortable enough that you will wear it all times during your trip. Inexpensive models will do in a pinch, but the styles that are marketed to the whitewater kayaking crowd are the most comfortable. Like the Wilderness Systems model pictured below, they are designed to stay out of the way of your arms as you paddle and fish. When trying on different sizes of life vests at the store, ask a salesperson to assist you by adjusting the straps. The straps should be snug enough that the shoulder straps do not lift above your ears when someone pulls up on them.
When choosing a paddle you might want to actually ignore what a salesperson will suggest. If a 6 foot tall man is paddling a 12 foot boat in flat water, a paddle length of 230 is appropriate. If the same man is fishing from that boat, the 230 cm paddle is too long. When fishing from the kayak, you will frequently need to pick up the paddle with one hand and rudder while your other hand is holding the rod. One hand paddling or ruddering allows you to maintain the boat’s position in current. This is difficult with a longer or heavier paddle. I use a fiberglass paddle that is 203 cm in length. You should choose as lightweight a paddle as you can afford. Carbon and fiberglass paddles are the lightest, but can have a significant price tag to match. One type of paddle that is becoming popular with kayak fishermen features a fiberglass shaft, and paddle blades that are made of fiberglass embedded plastic. This material keeps the weight of the paddle relatively low with a significant cost reduction.
Having a place to secure your rod when running a bouncy class 2 rapid lets you keep your eyes on where you are going instead of watching your rod go overboard. Top mount rod holders like the Scotty rod holder pictured below have locking mechanisms that can prevent the rod from bouncing out. The flush mount rod holder also pictured below is another option. Whether you chose a flush mount or top mount, consider the placement of where the rod will be in relation to your paddling strokes. If you place it where your paddle will strike the rod, you will have to reinstall it. I have found that I prefer to have the rods in the holders either pointing straight ahead, or straight behind. Rods that point out to the side like downriggers tend to get tangled in overhanging branches.
Please notice that I have not mentioned installing an anchor. The reasons for this will be discussed in Part Three which will cover maintaining boat position and stealth approaches. Next month in Part Two, river safety and paddling skills will be explained.
Kayak Fishing For River Smallmouth
Part Two: River Kayak Fishing Safety
In last month’s article, we outlined the process of purchasing and rigging a fishing kayak. Now it’s time to get on the water and learn some paddling skills. But before I cover that, a river safety primer is needed.
"Live to fish another day" should be the motto of kayak anglers. The best way to do that is to educate yourself. Reading this article is a good start, but it is not enough. Taking a paddling or swift water rescue class will train you to prevent and respond to accidents. You will also gain experience handling mock emergencies in a semi controlled environment. You can educate your brain all you want, but it is your body's trained reflexes that will take over, and hopefully bring you home safely.
The most important part of river safety is the personal floatation device (PFD), or life vest. In order for it to work, you must have it on at all times. Having it on doesn't mean having it right next to you in the kayak, or having it draped across the shoulders without the zipper fastened. If you are uncomfortable wearing it, adjust it or purchase a different model.
While fishing a warm water discharge on the Susquehanna River in Pennsylvania, I ran into a friend who was fishing from his jet boat. Skip called out to me "Yakfish, you wanna go for a ride?!" I put my kayak back in my truck, and boarded his jet boat. Half way to his honey hole downstream, we crossed over a ledge. The ledge posed no problem for the jet boat. It was the boulder on the downstream side of the ledge that we landed on that ripped a hole in the hull. Skip motored over to a gravel flat, and we inspected the hole. You could drop a grapefruit through the hole without hitting the sides. After two failed attempts to patch it with the lid of a tackle box and some silicone gel, Skip went to get his truck about four miles upstream. We were done fishing for the day. He apologized for the mishap, and promised that he would weld his boat so that we could get to his honey hole some time soon.
Four days later, a fisherman was reported missing in the same area. A jet boat was discovered anchored in the middle of the river with no occupants. The first person to board the jet boat found tools, engine parts, and my friend Skip's lifejacket on the bottom of the boat. Days later, I spoke to members of a search and rescue team who were working to recover my friend's body. The consensus among the search and rescue team members was that people who wear their life vest at all times rarely drown. Several weeks later, Skip's body was found in a log jam at a dam many miles downstream, bringing closure to Skip's family and friends. Do not take your life vest off until you are on dry land.
Assuming that you will wear your life vest, there are still many hazards to avoid on the river. Strainers, hydraulics, hypothermia, dehydration, and boat pinnings can be prevented. Planning for a safe trip includes researching the section of river that you plan to float. You should find out what rapids are on the trip. Whitewater guide books such as Roger Corbett’s Virginia Whitewater usually have maps that mark the location and class of rapids as well as the access points. Speaking to local guides or outfitters is a good idea. They should be able to give you a range of USGS river gauge levels that are considered safe for boating. The United States Geological Survey website for stream flow data is http://water.usgs.gov/nwis/rt.
Hydraulics are cyclical currents that form directly downstream of a ledge drop or rapid. They have the ability to keep a boat or person suspended in the cyclical current for a long time. Logs are often trapped in large hydraulics for days, polishing the bark off as it tumbles in place. Portaging, or getting out of the river and carrying you boat around the rapid is always an option. If you plan on running the rapid, hit the drop perpendicular with plenty speed to carry you over the hydraulic. Running rapids slowly is a common mistake for beginners to make. Your kayak will be more stable with you paddling through the rapid than it would be if you floated through it without paddling.
A strainer is any object in the river that water will pass through, but you and your boat will not. Usually they are downed trees, but barbed wire fences, and other garbage in the river can act as strainers. The best way to avoid a strainer is to keep your eye looking downstream. Start to paddle away from it as soon as you see that the current is pushing you in that direction.
Pinning a boat happens when it gets wedged in an underwater structure and is held in place by the current. Paddlers who fall out of the boat in whitewater can also get their leg pinned. Boat pinning situations are avoided by scouting or portaging rapids that are beyond your comfort level is always good advice. Leg pinning can be avoided by assuming a safe swimmer position: floating on your back with your legs pointing downstream and toes out of the water. If you fall out of the kayak, make sure that the boat is downstream of you. This prevents a situation where you get mashed between the upstream boat and a downstream rock.
Hypothermia is a condition when your body temperature decreases to a point where you can’t function properly. It usually happens when the water is below 60 degrees, but can happen in the middle of summer. A late afternoon thunderstorm has the ability to drop the air temperature 30 degrees or more. By preparing yourself a dry bag with extra clothes and rain gear, you will be able to avoid or recover from hypothermia.
Dehydration usually occurs in hot weather, but like hypothermia, you need to prepare yourself for it at all times. On one day trips in warm weather, make sure that you have packed yourself a liter for every two and a half hours that you will be out. If you are planning a multi day trip, bring a water filter and iodine tablets as a back up.
The river safety portion of this article is not meant to scare you away from getting involved in kayak fishing, but rather to urge you to educate and prepare yourself in case an emergency does happen. Solid paddling skills are an important part of river safety.
Most people who purchase a kayak for fishing can move the boat forward on the first try. It's just a matter of putting the paddle in the water, and pulling back. Or is it? Learning good paddling form at the onset is very important, especially for paddlers who plan on stalking wary fish. Learning to do it the right way when you are a beginner is much easier than trying to correct bad paddling form later on.
Start by grasping the paddle. Your hands should hold the shaft of the paddle so that your elbows are at a 90 degree angle. To check the angle of your elbows, ask a friend to look at the angle as you rest the paddle on the top of your head. This position forms a box or rectangle. Maintaining this rectangle's shape will be important once you start paddling.
A major part of good paddling form is torso rotation. By locking your elbows at the 90 degree angle, you force your torso to provide the power instead of relying on your arms for power. You derive more power and fatigue less by teaching yourself torso rotation. Stretching your lower back before paddling can teach your body the torso rotation position. While sitting in the kayak, put one hand on the opposite side of the boat near your hip. Place the other hand on the rear deck, or as far back as possible. You will feel your lower back stretch. This stretch exaggerates the same body position that should be used while paddling.
Knowing if you are rotating your torso can be difficult. One way to assess your form is to watch your elbow angles as you paddle. If you notice that your rectangle has become a triangle during paddling, you are paddling with your arms instead of rotating your torso. Another way to assess how you did is to notice which muscle groups are sore the next morning. If your shoulders and arms are sore, you probably relied on them too much. If your form was good, your legs will be sore, because they brace your body in the boat while your torso powers you forward. Good torso rotation will feel awkward at first, but will serve you well once it becomes second nature.
Any paddle stroke can be divided into three components: the catch, the power phase, and the recovery. The catch is simply the point at which you insert your paddle blade into the water. "Insert" is the correct verb in this case, as it should be a separate and deliberate action. Many paddlers fail to do this in the haste of getting immediately to the power phase. The blade should enter the water so that there are as few bubbles created behind the blade as possible. An energy efficient catch can provide more power during the power phase.
The power phase is the most obvious part of the stroke. The path that the paddles shaft follows during the power phase determines what kind of stroke is being made. A forward stroke will remain in a straight path along the side of the kayak. A sweep stroke follows a curved path that begins at the knee, swings away from the boat, and ends behind the seat.
The recovery, like the catch, is another place to maximize efficiency. The blade should be removed from the water as cleanly as possible without lifting water on the paddle blade as it leaves the water. While returning the blade to the catch position, the blade should slice through the air instead of push against it with the broad side of the blade.
Efficiency in paddling form is probably not as crucial for kayak anglers, as it would be for an Olympic slalom kayaker. Two major advantages for kayak anglers are stealth and slower fatigue. An efficient kayaker is a quiet fish stalker. A fatigued fisherman catches fewer fish.
Maneuvering your kayak in moving water does not need to be arduous. By using proper speed, boat angle, and lean for the situation, your maneuvers can be graceful and quick. Maneuvers should be learned under instructor supervision.
Ferrying your kayak in a straight line from one side of the river to the other requires that you pay close attention to the angle of your kayak in relation to the current direction. If you point your kayak cross current, your path will veer quickly downstream instead of maintaining a straight line. You can either constantly correct your erroneous path, or learn to angle the boat upstream. The stronger the current, the more you should point upstream. As you enter slower current, you can change your kayaks angle, pointing more cross current. Leaning downstream will help the angle change occur more quickly.
An eddy turn is a maneuver that takes you from pointing downstream in current to pointing upstream behind an object that blocks current. They require great speed to crisply cross the eddy line. Without speed, you may find yourself spinning down the eddy line instead of entering the eddy. The angle with which you cross the eddy line is also important. Forty five degree angle crossings work in slower current. A greater angle will be required with stronger current. Once across the eddy line, you will need to lean upstream to control your body’s momentum.
The lean is the most important variable in a peel out, a maneuver where you exit the eddy and turn downstream. Leaning your boat upstream during a peel out will most likely result in you falling out of the boat on the upstream side of it By leaning downstream after crossing the eddy line, you remain more stable while carving a 180 degree turn downstream.
Solid paddling skills help kayak anglers remain safe, work the river thoroughly, and decrease fatigue. An investment in a basic moving water paddling course will help you more than the words on this paper will. Understanding the concepts of paddling is not enough. You will need to train your body the specific movements required. Professional instructors can help you learn the movements properly and quickly.
Kayak Fishing For River Smallmouth
Part Three: Putting Your Skills to Use
In Part One and Two of this series of articles, kayak purchase and rigging, river safety, and paddling skills were covered. In this final article, the skills and knowledge will be put to use to catch citation Virginia river smallmouth. An angler who can hold his kayak exactly where he wants it to be can deliver effective presentations. The kayak angler who can approach that area in a way that the fish are not spooked will tangle with a pigbeast of a smallmouth. In Part One, I intentionally left out the rigging of anchors on kayaks. Here’s why I left it out.
Bass boats are equipped with powerful trolling motors. Johnboats can safely utilize anchors. Canoes and catarafts are often rigged with drag chains. Each of these techniques for maintaining boat position can be applied to kayak fishing, but may not be the safest method. In order to concentrate on specific locations, kayak anglers can wedge on rocks, paddle with one hand, pull into an eddy, loosely attach a line to a shoreline structure, or use an anchor.
The anchor is usually the first accessory a beginning kayak angler installs on their new kayak. When attached to smaller boats anchors bring on a whole new set of problems. Ron Evans, an experienced Virginia river kayak angler describes an incident that changed his mind on the use of anchors on a kayak:
“I was off in a shoreline eddy and had dropped the rear anchor. I decided to move on, but as I paddled away I forgot the rear anchor was out. When I got into the current (steady current) the anchor grabbed hold of a rock tight! It was a jolting stop! I knew right away it was hung up. As the kayak started to whip back and forth, I realized I needed to do something quick. I turned to try to pull it free, and was surprised to see the whole back side of my kayak underwater! As I fumbled to get my knife out, the cockpit of the kayak filled violently with water. I got the rescue knife open & cut the line pretty quickly, but this didn't help. The line was run through a jam cleat and was locked down! I could just barely reach it, but I got it just in the nick of time!”
This type of story is common in circles of kayak anglers. I have been on both sides of this story, having to cut a friends anchor line, and having a friend come to my rescue with a knife.
If you choose to use an anchor, do not have it tied to the boat. Quick release cleats are helpful. But as Ron demonstrated, they are not fool proof. Choose where you lower your anchor wisely. Before I swore off of anchors, I only used small (1 lb or less) anchors. I strongly recommend only using the anchor to keep the wind from moving the boat. If I need to stay in place because of current, I use a different method of maintaining position.
Wedging the kayak is my most utilized technique. Upon spotting a good target area, I look downstream for an appropriate wedging rock. I paddle around the target area, making sure I keep my distance from the area I want to fish. Then I run up onto the wedging rock from the downstream side. Attempting to wedge from the upstream side frequently results in a dunking, but can be performed on rocks that have very little current flowing over them. Several attempts may need to be made to find the correct position atop the submerged object. By putting your hands on the rock, and pulling yourself up onto it, you may find a more stable position. Other shallow areas such as mud banks, shallow submerged timber, or gravel bars are also good places to wedge. Grass beds slow the current down and are also good places to wedge.
Not all kayaks are good wedging kayaks. If the hull has a pointy keel line, the kayak will probably not be very stable upon wedging. Also, some rocks are better than others for wedging. The best wedging rocks or logs are completely submerged, but come within an inch or two of the surface. Kayaks with strong keel lines may wedge more securely between two shallow V shaped rocks. Experiment and learn to identify the areas that create the most stable wedge.
Many target areas lack nearby wedging rocks. When I can’t wedge, I use my trolling motor. The one handed paddle technique is the kayak anglers’ equivalent of the bass boat’s trolling motor. This technique requires the use of a very lightweight paddle. For several years now, I have employed a fiberglass paddle that is 203 cm. Using such a short, lightweight paddle keeps my wrists from being overworked when one hand paddling. If more power is needed, elbows can push the paddle shaft forward, as the opposite side hand grasps the center of the shaft, serving as a fulcrum.
Most one hand paddling can be avoided by keeping your kayak in line with the current. A stitch in time saves nine certainly applies in this case. When the current gently pushes the bow of the kayak to one side, pick up your paddle and rudder on the opposite side of the turn. By pointing the boat into the current as soon as you notice the subtle turn, you avoid having to paddle several times to stay in the same spot.
On windy days when one hand paddling is too much of a chore, I take refuge on the bank. If I can’t find a good wedge, I look for small twigs or roots. In my sit on top kayak, I unclip the thigh strap, and clip it onto a small twig or root. By choosing a twig with a smaller diameter, you are able to snap it if you need to release in a hurry. In my sit in kayaks, I do the same thing with my boca grip. You could just as easily use a short section of twine and tie off like a horse on a hitchin’ post.
Maintaining position affords the angler a chance to set up on a target site and concentrate on fishing instead of worrying about what hazard they are drifting toward. By choosing the right technique for the location, anglers have enough time to safely and thoroughly probe the target area. Try the methods I have outlined before you install an anchor.
Sometimes being able to hold your boat where you want it isn’t enough. To catch the biggest, most wary fish, you need stealth. Deer hunters go to the extreme when setting up for the perfect shot at a monster buck. They use special soap to mask their scent. They find a downwind vantage point with a clear shot at a well traveled deer trail. They remain silent for hours to ensure that the wily buck does not detect their presence. The oldest specimen of any species has developed an ability to detect danger from a long distance. So why do most anglers pursue their quarry haphazardly? The answer is that the trophy fish anglers understand the four main ways that they can blunder, and make their prey aware of their presence. Vision, hearing, smell, and the lateral line are senses that the fish are equipped with.
Long before a fish can see the shadow an angler casts across the pool, vibrations from footsteps are transmitted through the soil, and into the water, announcing the arrival of a large predator. Trout fishermen know to crouch low, as they walk the bank. Somehow, larger fish still know not to bite. The vibration puts them on edge. How does this relate to kayak fishing? The vibrations coming from a kayak can be minimized. The vibrations are caused by either forward motion of the kayak or by motions of the angler that can be heard by the human ear.
As a boat travels through the water, a wake is formed. It’s similar to the way we feel the tractor trailer fly by us as we are changing a flat on the side of a highway. If the tractor trailer was only going 10 miles per hour, the wind would not be as strong. This means that as we approach a target area, we need to slow down to minimize the strength of the wake. We can see the wake that our boats cause. However, there is a prewake change in water pressure that we cannot see that is transmitted through the water. This prewake can be detected by the fish's lateral line. The lateral line is a nerve that detects moving objects in the water. It can be seen on most fish near the surface running from behind the gill plate to the tail. It is how fish can find objects to eat in flooding chocolate milk colored water.
Scent also plays a role in how fish find food. It can also help them detect something out of place. Many anglers use scents on their baits to help the fish locate and hold onto the offering. The scent of tobacco that an angler transmits from their hand to the plastic bait may make the difference between a fish quickly spitting out a bait, and holding onto it long enough for the angler to bury the hook point. Think about what scents you may disperse into the water. You may decide to walk up onto the bank to find a thirsty tree instead of urinating directly into the water.
Anglers who carry on loudly with the other members in their float group often catch lots of fish. The many smaller fish that they catch are less wary compared to the elder fish. The older, wiser fish have developed an instinct that prevents them from biting when the human voice is bellowed across their pool. There are exceptions to this. There are exceptional days, when big fish are aggressive, and will bite regardless of danger signs. But for the most part, keeping quiet when you fish will increase your big fish catch rate.
Your voice isn’t the only way you can make noise and alert the fish. Bumping the hull of your boat with the paddle makes a deep hollow thump that travels through the water. Scraping across ledge rock or running into a log can also create a loud noise. Riffles and other areas where the current creates its own noise that can mask the angler’s noise. Winter fishing requires silence, because the target area is usually calm water. Low water periods are also difficult because the water vibration is concentrated in less water, and carries a greater distance.
Low water periods are often associated with spooky bass. Anglers often think that they spook fish when the fish see them. Sight is often the last sense a fish uses to detect a predator. Often, the fish will feel the vibration or prewake, then swim in the direction of the disturbance to investigate, stop once the angler is spotted, and turn away just as the angler spots the fish. The angler thinks that the fish swam away because it saw the angler. In reality, the sighting is often the final part of the series of events.
What can be done to minimize the fish spotting you? Many anglers tout the advantages of using light line. Many are convinced that the fish can see the line if it is too wide of a diameter. They probably do see the line, but do not connect its presence with danger. Rather, they see the angler, which is a certain sign of danger. Smaller diameter line cast further, allowing the angler to stay at maximum distance from the target area. Long casts are very important in low water periods.
Kayak anglers have a major advantage over canoes, john boats, or rafts. The low profile of a kayak angler means that they go undetected more often. One way to be stealthy is to move slowly once you are within striking range of the target area. Quick, jerky movements alert the fish more than gradual movements.
Analyze the area before you enter it. Decide on a specific spot where you want to present your lure. Then decide how you will get within striking range without being detected. Drifting motionlessly into place is a good idea. If you can use the current or wind to get you there you will have better results. You may find yourself confronted with an impossible approach. In certain situations you may want to consider getting out of the kayak, then stalking the area on foot. Be sure to crouch low as you near the area.
Sometimes, you have structures or water characteristics that can mask or obscure the fish’s line of sight. The act of casting a long distance is a quick jerky movement. Try to position a rock ledge, log, or area of wind whipped water in between you and where you think the fish are. Windy days are rather frustrating. The rough surface of the water is the saving grace of an otherwise irritating situation. The roughness of the water surface works the same way a sliding shower door does in obscuring a clear view. Learn to use it to your advantage.
The best way to become a more stealthy fish stalker is to constantly analyze what sights, sounds, smells, and vibrations you are sending out into the fish’s environment. Larger fish will be your reward.
Kayak fishing Virginia’s free flowing rivers affords you the opportunity to fish the river in ways that traditional boats can not. You will be able to put into a stream where there is not a ramp. You will be able to sneak up on the fish with greater stealth. You will be able to float sections of river during low water periods that would be arduous with traditional boats. And you will be doing it with less money invested than any of the other options. Before you do it though, consider taking some safety and paddling courses to reinforce what has been outlined in this series of articles.
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